
Umami: The Fifth Taste and How to Cook With It
Umami is the fifth basic taste. Learn what it is, where it appears, and how Japanese ingredients can bring more depth to everyday cooking.
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If you have ever wondered why a bowl of Japanese miso soup tastes like so much more than miso and water, the answer is dashi. Dashi is the light, fragrant stock behind many classic soups, noodles, sauces and simmered dishes. It rarely appears on the plate as its own dish, but it is there in the background making everything else deeper and rounder. Learn dashi, and you have learned the heart of Japanese cooking.
For us at Nekko Kitchen, dashi is the stock that gives much of Japanese food its umami, the fifth basic taste. Where a Nordic stock is often built on hours of simmering bones and root vegetables, the Japanese version is quick, clean and almost transparent. A classic batch takes ten to twenty minutes and is built from only two or three ingredients. It is one of the most rewarding things to learn, precisely because it gives so much flavor for so little work.
In this guide, we go through what dashi actually is, the most common types and how to make a basic stock at home. We also show a faster everyday version for evenings when you do not want to cook from scratch, what to cook with the stock, and how to think about buying ready-made versus making it yourself.
Dashi is the collective name for the stocks that form the flavor base of Japanese cooking. Unlike Western stocks, which often cook for a long time to draw flavor from meat and bones, it is about quickly and gently extracting umami from dried ingredients. The result is a clear, light stock with a clean, savory flavor and a scent of the sea.
The base of most versions is two ingredients. The first is kombu, a thick brown kelp full of glutamate, the compound that gives umami. The second is katsuobushi, shaved flakes of dried and smoked bonito (a fish in the tuna family), which contributes inosinate. When glutamate and inosinate meet, they reinforce each other, and the umami sensation becomes several times stronger than the sum of its parts. That is the whole secret behind the stock's depth.
Dashi is also closely connected to the discovery of umami itself. It was from kombu dashi that the Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda isolated glutamate in the early 1900s and gave the fifth taste its name. If you want to understand the flavor more deeply, we have a full guide to umami and how to cook with it. But you need no chemistry to succeed, only water, patience and the right ingredients.
There are several types of dashi, depending on which ingredients you use. Here are the ones you most often meet, and what they suit.

Kombu dashi is made from only kombu and water. It is completely vegetarian, mild and lightly sweet, with a clean ocean note. Without fish, it suits delicate dishes, vegetarian cooking and bases you want to build on. It is also the easiest to make, since all you need is to soak kombu in cold water.
Awase dashi means roughly "combined dashi" and is the classic all-purpose stock: kombu plus katsuobushi. This is what you most often think of as "Japanese dashi", and the one that gives restaurant miso soup its clear, savory flavor. A pure katsuo dashi, made only with katsuobushi and no kombu, is stronger and more clearly fishy and smoky, and is sometimes used as a more powerful seasoning base.
Niboshi dashi is made with small dried fish, most often sardines. It is stronger, darker and more robust than awase dashi, with a more pronounced fish and ocean note. It is common in simple homemade miso soup and in noodle dishes where you want a stock that can stand up to stronger flavors.
If you want a vegetarian version with more force than plain kombu dashi, dried shiitake mushrooms are the answer. You soak dried shiitake in cold water and get a dark, earthy stock rich in umami. It is often combined with kombu to make a fully plant-based stock with real depth, perfect for anyone cooking vegetarian food without compromising on flavor.
This is the simplest version and a good first stock to make. It only requires kombu, water and a little time. The amounts make about one liter.
If you want to make awase dashi, take the kombu dashi above, let it almost reach boiling, turn off the heat and add a generous handful of katsuobushi (about 10 to 20 grams). Let the flakes sink for a couple of minutes, then strain the stock through a fine sieve. Do not press the flakes, let them drain by themselves, so the stock stays clear.
Most Japanese households do not cook dashi from scratch every day, just as we do not simmer meat stock for hours on a weekday. There are convenient shortcuts that give a fully usable stock in minutes, and they are well worth keeping in the pantry.
The most common shortcut is dashi powder or dashi granules, often called hondashi. Stir a teaspoon into hot water and you have finished stock in seconds. The flavor is stronger and saltier than homemade, and many ready-made powders contain flavor enhancers. Check the ingredient list if you want a cleaner product. There are also packs that work like tea bags: you place them in hot water and lift them out, a middle ground between ready-made and homemade.
Another smart everyday solution, and a favorite, is to stop thinking of dashi as something separate and instead build the umami directly into the dish. Place a piece of kombu in the water when cooking rice or soup, and you get the effect along the way. And if a finished dish needs one last push of savory saltiness, there are smoother routes than cooking stock, which we return to below.
Dashi is not a dish in itself but a building block. Once you have it, homemade or from granules, a large part of Japanese cooking opens up. Here are the most common uses.

The pattern is the same throughout Japanese cooking: dashi underneath, a seasoning on top. And the topping is where you can most quickly borrow the umami principle for everyday food, without cooking a drop of stock.
If dashi is umami in liquid form as a base, there is also umami as a finish, what you sprinkle or drop on at the very end. For us at Nekko Kitchen, the two are connected: the same ocean-fresh, savory flavor that the stock gives a soup can be placed on top of a finished dish.
Aonori shoyu is a seaweed-seasoned, soy-free condiment with a soy-sauce-like depth, fermented with the same aonori that is also a building block in Japanese seaweed. It gives concentrated umami with an ocean note, a kind of quick dashi in a bottle. A few drops on a fried egg, over steamed vegetables or on butter-fried fish lifts the dish in the same way the stock does in a soup, but without simmering. This is often how we bring the flavor world of dashi into everyday food when time is short.
Should you cook dashi from scratch or buy it ready-made? Both have their place, and most Japanese households mix depending on the day and the dish.
Making it yourself gives the cleanest, most nuanced flavor and full control over salt and additives. It is surprisingly easy, especially kombu dashi, which is mostly about soaking. The downside is that it requires a little planning and that the ingredients, kombu and katsuobushi, can be harder to find outside Asian grocery stores.
Ready-made dashi in powder or packs is quick, inexpensive and always available, a reasonable everyday solution just like bouillon cubes in a Nordic kitchen. The only thing to watch is the content: many powders are salty and contain flavor enhancers, so if you want a cleaner flavor, read the package and choose a version with few additives.
Our advice is to start by making kombu dashi from scratch once, so you learn the flavor and know what you are aiming for. Then you can fall back on a good ready-made product for everyday use without guilt. And for quick lifts, when you only want umami on an already finished plate, a bottle of aonori shoyu or a jar of seaweed is often easier than cooking stock.
Homemade dashi is fresh food. It keeps for two to three days in the fridge in a closed container and loses flavor the longer it sits. If you will not use it right away, freezing is a good option. Freeze the stock in ice cube trays, so you can take one or two cubes at a time when you quickly want to season a dish.
The dry ingredients, on the other hand, keep for a long time. Kombu and katsuobushi should be stored dry, dark and airtight, and they keep their quality for many months. Moisture is the biggest enemy, so keep them away from the stove and close the bag properly. Dashi powder and granules are stored the same way and have a long shelf life.
One final thought: save the kombu and katsuobushi you have already used for a batch. They still have flavor left and can be cooked a second time for a weaker stock, or chopped and seasoned into a small side dish. With a little dashi in the fridge or freezer, and the right ingredients in the pantry, you have the key to a whole food culture within reach.
The wishlist
Nekko is a small Japanese pantry in Gothenburg, and the shelf grows with what you actually want at home. Dashi is not on it today and we have nothing on order, so we are not promising a date. Sign up and we will let you know the day that changes.
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Basim Ali Yoshiguchi
Founder, Nekko Kitchen
Basim Ali Yoshiguchi is the founder of Nekko Kitchen. After many trips to Japan and a long-standing interest in Japanese food and culture, he has immersed himself in Japanese tea, from cultivation and processing to brewing in his own kitchen. Every product in the range is personally tested before it is added.
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